Friday 25 August 2017 Strathyre Scotland

25 August 2017
Munro Inn, Strathyre, Scotland
68.6 km, 14kph, +912m
1015 – 1700

Sustrans route all day except for a minor shortcut around Callander.

I took a moment to chit chat to one of the famous guests at the hotel door, letting him know he has plenty of Canadian fans.

We started out through Balloch Castle park, climbing up and out of the town, with views back down to Loch Lomond, down country roads, in the morning mist.

As we went over Endrick Water, I saw something in the corner of my eye, and thought of the closing of the Lord of the Rings, where Frodo is lost in conversation with Gandalf. Sometimes if you look carefully you might see them in the corner of the field. Crossing the bridge, the sign said “The Shire”. A few moments later, “Watch for Hobbits.” I knew I was in the right place.

Down through the park-serving town of Drymen, then up our first 200m hill, quite pretty, narrow route, with walkers and little traffic. Not too hard to climb when you have the road to yourself. Soup at Aberfoyle, and then on to our second big climb, up 300m on the track through the park.

It was stunning – starting with the childrens activities at the start, then a massive ropes and climbing course in the trees. The woods were ringing with the sounds of people enjoying the forest, the challenge and the day. The Brits know how to use their parks – I was very impressed.

Then way up into the spectacular heathered hills and forest, perfect with flowers, moss, heather, and not much debris, which is fuelling the fires in BC this season. Water everywhere – little creeks pouring down the mountain, major waterfall, and light rain. We climbed up and over the forest road, no sign of other cyclists, and a few walkers. At Loch Drunkie, the oaks leaned over the water, campers camped and we cycled.

Then down the rough path along Loch Venachar, not very easy and we were relieved when it turned into pavement about half way along. At the point, by the way, there is an arboretum, planted a century ago, with massive trees from around the world.

We took the paved path along Loch Lubnaig, very pretty until the mist turned to driving rain, the path turned into a difficult track, and choosing between shelter and being utterly drenched, we finally arrived in the tiny town of Strathyre and the Munro Inn, from which we are not budging.

Thursday 24 August 2017 Balloch Scotland

Thurs 24 August 2017
Cameron House Hotel, Balloch, Loch Lomond
37.2 km, 16kph, +70m
1100 – 1400

This was to be a rest day so we rested by taking a short flat three-part ride to Balloch. Part one, rail beds down the Clyde; part 2, along the historic Forth to Clyde canal, and part 3, along the fast flowing and brimming full River Leven.


Now happily ensconced at Cameron House, where we plan to spend the afternoon doing exactly nothing.

Wednesday 23 August 2017 Glasgow Scotland

Weds 23 Aug 2017
Grand Central Hotel, Glasgow
0945 – 1700, 68.8km, 17.4kph, +454m

Our room was in the centre of the upper floor of the pub. No windows. Very hot, and I can hardly imagine it was legal. I expected to lie awake all night  and went to sleep thinking hard about the lack of fire exit… However, both evening and morning staff in the establishment made up for our discomfort – they were extremely friendly and helpful.

Because of our detour to Biggar last night, today was a road day for most of the day.

We started with a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Site at New Lanark, site of cotton mills built to harness the new technology of water power from the falls on the Clyde River.

The owners’ philosophy of building a community which educated children and cared for workers’ welfare was revolutionary at the time.

The ride continued in fairly heavy traffic along the Clyde Valley, the eventually onto the very pretty bike route into Glasgow, much of it on rail beds and all paved and through quiet areas.

Our hotel is attached to the historic railway station which for some reason pleases both of us.

Tuesday 22 August 2017 Biggar Scotland

Tues 22 Aug 2017
Elphinstone Inn, Biggar
98.1 km, 20.4 kph, +680
1015 – 1700 hrs

Another warm and beautiful day cycling. We’ve been taken by surprise though at the lack of accommodation. We couldn’t find 2 nights this week in Glasgow, and tonight had to come an extra 18 kms to Biggar to get a room.

So we spent a romantic night in Gretna booking accommodation for next week.

Route today was the sustrans/Natl Cycle Network route except for out of Gretna. All on road, and much quicker than usual on this trip. From Gretna, we went up the valley which is a major corridor, with motorway, train, our road, Clyde wind farms, and river. Also wildflowers packing the sides of roads, it was a beautiful and quick ride. Down the other side into valley of Clyde, and on to Biggar.

There’s very little accommodation in this area at this time of year. Hence our detour to the not so big town of Biggar. Quick walk around town and dinner in our pub.

Monday 21 August 2017 Gretna Green Scotland

21 August 2017 Hotel Gretna Hall (“The Original Marriage House”)
Gretna Green Scotland
58.6 km, 18kph, +356

Excellent day cycling today, following the sustrans route most of the day through easy country roads, warm temperatures and wind at our backs. The roller coasters on one stretch of road added drama to what was a straightforward ride.

The ride into Carlisle was the best bike route we’ve seen in the UK going into a town. Interesting to see the floodgates along the route.

We stopped to be tourists at Carlisle Castle, and read about 1000 yrs of intense relationship between the English and the Scottish.

After Carlisle, we skipped the long route suggested by sustrans and came straight across the causeway on the road next to the motorway.

Now we’re learning the history of marriage, along with bus loads of tourists and wedding parties.

Sunday 20 August 2017 Penrith Cumbria

20 August 2017
George Hotel, Penrith
43km, 16.6kph, +577m
1030 – 1530

Short day of cycling today, starting with the 400m hill on Shap Road over Shap Fell. It was a tough climb, tackled by many cyclists, most on road bikes and moving quite a bit more quickly than us.

We took a tourist break at Lowther Castle, and into Penrith early, so we can have a lovely afternoon date at the laundrette.

If you walk around a locked castle following teenage boys with firecrackers, you’ll find their special entrance and your way in. Then you can view Penrith Castle (second castle of the day, last lived in about 600 yrs ago) to your heart’s content. Richard III lived here as the warden of Cumbria, some time ago.

Saturday 19 August 2017 Kendal Cumbria

19 August 2017
Summerhow B and B, Kendal
66.2km, 14kph, +1053m
1000 – 1700

Day of high drama as we cycled over the fells in the remnants of hurricane Greg from the US.

Breakfast conversation at the Hale to Bounty were all about the hunt. It’s grouse season here and the pub is full with the hunters. They assured us they don’t shoot cyclists.

Black clouds and a high north wind met us as we set off through the Forest of Bowland and over Tatham Fell. We crawled slowly up and over, stopping for photos and breaks. When the rain came in horizontally we sat on the lee side of a stone wall and stayed dry.

Coming down the rain in our faces was like needles, I’ve never felt that before. It was high drama for cycling.

Quick lunch in Hornby, a short cut on sustrans route after Gressingham, then through Kendal to friends John and Janie’s BnB at Summerhow. A long tough day, earning our huge dinners at the Wheatsheaf.

Friday 18 August 2017 Slaidburn Lancashire

Friday 18 August 2017

Hale to Bounty pub, Slaidburn
0945 – 1810
84.2km, 14.4 kph, +973m

A blustery Lancashire day, with showers all day, fortunately around us but not on us. We followed the sustrans route all day, beautiful rail beds and one canal section, but always slower than being on the roads.

Th route out of Manchester was well marked and we were soon on one of the many woodland paths which surround the city.

Plenty of industry in the area, and the remnants of industry. Manchester itself is thriving, with big tech sector, massive construction, plenty of jobs, restaurants, bars, museums, cultural facilities. We liked being there.

After Bury, we had our first big hill, with a big view at the top, with sun and clouds and wind. Quick lunch at the Village Store in Helmsford, I signed the petition to keep the store open. The neighbours don’t like it apparently. These things are the same all over the world.

More rail beds and then the Leeds and Liverpool canal (“66 miles to Leeds”). It pleases both of us to see the motorway go under the canal.

Branched off on a very steep overland path, Wilpshire Road, to the very pretty Britain in Bloom town, Whalley for tea.

Last hill was 4 km and 160m rise over the Grindleton Fell and the Forest of Bowland. It was the most spectacular ride, with wild clouds, blue sky, glittering massive landscape. “One of England’s best views”, we were told. Our descent into Slaidburn brought us into a tiny perfect village, one owner of the whole area, a pub full of grouse hunters, and Friday night fish night dinner.

Our room is off the old courtroom, so we had interesting ghosts in the night.

Weds and Thurs 16 and 17 August 2017 Manchester

16,17 August 2017
Lowry Hotel Manchester
1035 – 1730
70 km, +340m, 14.9 kph

Easy ride as far as Winsford, then spent an inordinate amount of time on the Weaver Way and into Northwich. Weaver Way was interesting for the industrial history, long history of salt mines, and very large one still in operation. But the trail was not in good condition and slow going in some areas, then hopeless around Northwich. The sustrans route doesn’t work at all due to disappeared trails and new development.

Disappearing path by Northwich

Past Northwich we stopped to see the spectacular walled gardens at Arley Hall. Took me back to “the Secret Garden” which I read dozens of times as a child.

We took the overland route out of Arley – I have to give credit to MapOut – if the path is on the map, it’s public. Even if, as in this case, it is just a route across a field into a narrow bridal path.

The route into Manchester was on railway beds and woodland paths, very pretty and not busy, but again slow due to multiple stops to check the route.

Very happy to be in our hotel, looking forward to a rest day.

Thurs: visits to cathedral, national football museum, and Cheetham’s library.

Tuesday 15 August 2017 Worleston nr Nantwich Cheshire

15 August 2017
Rookery Court Hotel
Worleston, near Nantwich, Cheshire
0945 – 0430
85.5, +575m, 16.5 kph

A beautiful day for cycling through Shropshire, wind brisk but mainly behind us, weather warm.

We started out staying along the river in Bridgnorth, rather than the steep ride into upper town, then rejoined the route at the end of the playing field. The route then followed the Severn, gravel road, mainly private fishing areas reserves, and very pretty.

Iron bridge is advertised as an interesting side trip in our book, famous symbol of the start of the industrial revolution, but we crossed the river into Coalport instead and followed the rail bed up the hill and all the way to Telford. I was impressed with Telford, huge multi use park on south side of town and then a massive children’s play area swarming with kids. They’re doing it right.

Easy ride through countryside to Smallwood lodge tea room in Newport for lunch. Next stop Audlem where Olin went in for repair to the rear shifter and came out with new gear cable. I sat in pub across road and drank tea. Vwryhelpful proprietor at the bike shop.

We took a shortcut along Coole Road right into Nantwich which turned out very well. Couple more miles to hotel and ensconcement by the pool.   Off to a three course gourmet meal tonight.